Jul 21 2009

Pacific Jesus

jesusAs intimated before, there’s a ot of love for Jesus in Rarotonga. Every day we drove past a huge sign that said, simply, “Jesus Loves YOU” and, after a few days, TSO and I both, subconsciously started singing “Jesus Loves Me” (the hymn) in our heads. After a few days, I sang it out loud, exposing us both. I tried several times to count how many places of worship on the 40 minute circumnavigation of the island but lost count in the high 20s every time. This statue of Jesus at the side of the road caught my eye early on but the light was never right to take his picture. This is the best I could do. He had a lovely little grotto all to himself, with a little waterfall and heaps of gorgeous pacific plants.


Jul 15 2009

Mum Porn

mumnudeThis auction, on New Zealand’s Ebay – called Trademe here – is raising a fair bit of noise

(PS – the kid is actualy pretty funny – he was just on the nightly news – check the Q&A at the bottom of the auction for samples of his humour)

NB: Update on 20th July – the guy has been outed for a fake! He’s actually the son of an ex-MP and the whole thing is a project for design school


Jun 28 2009

Our Winter Holiday

Well, here we are at the Cook Islands New Soup office. We arrived on Tuesday past and it was our intention to blog daily. The internet connection has been a little spotty in its availability. Nonetheless there have been some observations in the intervening days that may be worth recording. Rarotonga is much as I had imagined an island in the pacific to look. I mean my personal cherished image of such islands will always be that of Mutiny On The Bounty-esque palmy, breezy, semi-clad nubiles-everywhere splendor, don’t get me wrong. But having seen TSO’s family snaps of growing up in Tonga and those in any other book I’ve read (most recently the one about the Pitcairn Paedophiles) left me in no doubt that today’s Pacifica is a bit more lean-to sheds with Palm corned Beef posters on their sides than grass huts and coconut brassieres. However, if one can look past all this makeshift, man-made pedestrianism, the country remains geographically the same. That is to say – beautiful beyond measure.
We’ve found Rarotonga in mid-winter by their calendar so it’s not as stinkin’ hot as I feel sure it will be in high summer but even so, we’ve only seen a spit of rain the once in almost 5 days now. There’s a prevailing offshore wind pointing straight at Muri Beach where we’re camped out, lashing the reef with some pretty heavy swells (2-4m at times) but here in the lagoon, the waters are calm and lovely. We’ve gone snorkeling two or three times round the other side of the island at Black Rock and near the Rarotongan Resort where it’s sheltered from the wind. Christ! It’s like diving into the tank at a Chinese restaurant. The decorative one, not the one with the Koi waiting to get et. Some areas people are obviously feeding the fish cos they are bold as brass and yesterday I had the uncanny sensation of claustrophobia underwater when scads of these gaily-hued little reef fish crowded my mask as though they themselves were looking into some kind of tank containing an exotic curiosity. I must say, having only recently learned to enjoy the sights underwater while snorkeling – what a difference to not have to be sheathed in 7mm neoprene and need 13kg of lead at ones waist to be able to get down to the bottom for a look! And to be diving in lukewarm water! What a joy! Loving the life aquatic in Raro.
We’ve been blessed with a pretty swank place to live. We’re in the garden cottage of a place that has one huge mansion-esque villa with four bedrooms, pool, hottub, art on the walls etc. The cottage itself is lovely. We have use of all facilities so far  except, damnably, the hot tub. There is a couple from the Philippines that looks after our whims and cleans the place up daily – the lady even brings us by delicious cooked specialties. If I could but impart in her how very much I long to be in the big lovely hot tub overlooking the reef, we’d be laughing. Meanwhile, we’ve been making use of the kayaks as and when weather permits.
This morning was the Saturday morning market and it was a special week for there was a large, very organized tent revival happening in the middle of it all. Their appeared to be evangelic hopefuls attending from the length and breadth of the Pacific rim, if the emcee was to be believed. A young gospel singer from San Diego, California and her band whipped the crowd into a huge, devout froth with dance moves, hollers, “praise jesus”-es and “hallalujah’s” that had to be seen to be believed. The elderly church ladies in flower headdresses doing the hip-hoppish dance moves the young American was leading the crowd in, and their serious faces as they did so, was a treat. Yea! By crackey they do like their Jesus down here – I’ve counted the churches of ten completely different faiths so far as we drive around, and I’m unconvinced that’s all of them. Even the Ba’hais are representing for the Raro bretheren!
Raro is, to the New Zealander, kind of a Cabo to the Americans or a Magaluf to the Brits, in many ways. The island appears half populated by middle aged-to elderly Kiwis in their brand new summer holiday outfits. These generously-sandaled hopefuls wander around in goggle-eyed wonder at how different the world can be. I noted at the big market this morning that the only place I saw sell out of anything was the stall selling gourmet breads containing olives and sun dried tomatoes, pizza bread with pepperoni and chocolate croissants.
I was thinking in fact, what a ubiquitous thing the holiday sandal has become in the world at large – does anyone wear the thick-soled, webbing-strapped, 100% man-made Jesus boots when actually at home? Yet enter a holiday destination and you can bet your basket every second person is sporting pale, orange-heeled feet with unkempt toenails full of sock-fluff, enrobed in a set of these clumpy big heel-shredders! When coupled with the south-islander short-shorts or “stubbies” as I believe they’re called, baring legs brown as berries from above the knee to sock-level, white as yogurt from upper-knee to crotch and from ankle down, the sandals off the market stall are a holiday look in and of themselves. To complete the male top half of the outfit, one must seek out either a thirty-year-old rugby shirt, washed to oblivion or else the promotional polo shirt from your local plumbing supply depot – either one must be worn with the collar up and, if possible, a moustache.
The ladies are no slouches either: everything must be white or damn near it. The top half: Sleeveless wherever possible to maximize arm-heft exposure and with a neck low enough to show off the gold necklace and the yawning, plunging, leathery canyon leading to unimaginable depths. On the feet: same $5 sandals as the men only in tan or purply, pinky palettes. Toenails: painted. In between: pedal pushers in neutral colours. These must be thin enough to show clearly the distinct VPL of old-lady pants once the sweats come on when in tropical climes.

Photographs and food updates will follow sporadically


May 4 2009

Julie Driscoll & The Brian Auger Trinity

My old mate Michael, Canada’s top music writer, has posted a link to this clip of Julie Driscoll, whose more pop-ish work I used to have a Best Of LP ful of, tearing it up with The Brian Auger Trinity, a red hot blue-eyed soul combo. This, my friends, is my kind of music. Writ large. Listen to the drummer at the breakdown just before the end – weaving in and out of the organist’s percussive stabs. Pure magic. And Julie Driscoll, whom I’d thought of as a kind of folky-pop covers artist – wowee! She captivates in this clip. Absolutely spellbinding – her look, as TSO and I just agreed – is timlessly awesome, ditto her moves. Whoosh! That’s good.


Apr 30 2009

Never Been Kissed?!

c. 1995. Apart from anything I might have to say about Susan Boyle, can I just say that, on the basis of this alone, Michael Barrymore thoroughly deserves his status as a lost figure in entertainment? Stay in the wilderness, you mentalist…

…And what about Boylie anyway? She’s not quite so frumpy a looker here now, is she? Telling you now, Cowell created this whole kerfuffle. He’s the modern day situationist master.


Apr 22 2009

El Caminito Del Ray

I was just saying tonight that I never watch good travel TV any more. I used to have a pretty regular habit but since I’m here, I never watch any Ian Wright or any of that old Lonely Planet stuff. I really enjoy being taken somewhere exotic and totally foreign whilst in the comfort and security of The Big Chair. Well! How could I have guessed that TSO’s love of The Fear Factor and tonight’s stunts would lead to her remembering me she wanted to show me a video online for ages and that it would be this: El Caminito Del Rey.

Without further ado, then, ladiezangennulmunn……


Apr 5 2009

Just Before Winter

pakiri3Last April we took a trip away before Rory was born, to Pakiri Beach north of Auckland. The place had emptied out for the season so we got a little shed and stayed for the weekend. Awesome.


Jan 17 2008

Brooklyn Bridge

bbridge-2Thanks, Elvis.


Jan 15 2008

New York Walk

manhattanI’ve been really beating the pavements of Manhattan this week, and I’m developing a great playlist on the iPod that fits the mood perfectly. Here are some samples:.

  • Jaques Brel: La Foire
  • Tinariwen: Izarar Ténéré
  • Clap Your Hands, Say Yeah: Details Of The War
  • Omara Portuondo: Te Dije Quedate
  • The O’Kaysions: I’m A Girl Watcher
  • Colin James: Tin Pan Alley
  • Stone Roses: Ten Storey Love Song
  • Gene Pitney: Town Without Pity
  • London Symphony Orchestra: Canon In D Major (Pachelbel)
  • The Cramps: Goo Goo Muck
  • Wynonie Harris: Lovin’ Machine
  • Toots & The Maytals: 54-46 (Was My Number)
  • Rory Gallacher: As The Crow Flies
  • Van Morrison: Glad Tidings
  • Michael Halasz, Michelle Breedt & Nicolaus Esterhazy Sinfonia: Voi Che Sapete (From The Marriage Of Figaro, Mozart)
  • Hypnotic Brass Ensemble: Mercury (as of today)
  • Nightmares on Wax: Flip Ya Lid
  • Roy Orbison: Domino
  • Echo and the Bunnymen: My Kingdom
  • Incognito: Everybody Loves The Sunshine
  • The Coasters: Down In Mexico
  • Charles Aznavour: Plus Bleu Que Tes Yeux
  • Willie Hutch: Give Me Some of That Good Old Love
  • Felt: Seahorses On Broadway
  • Patrick Wilson: The Great Escape
  • Donald Byrd: Fallin’ Like Dominoes
  • Róisín Murphy: Checkin Up On Me
  • The Hidden Cameras: Heiji

Anyone got any suggestions for additions? I’m fine tuning every day, finding that certain songs really lend themselves well to the landscape.

(Incidentaly, I Took this picture from the Brooklyn Bridge the other day when the sky was cooperating)


Jan 9 2008

In A New Year State Of Mind

Man, the curveballs life throws you. This is the view from my window this morning, the streets of Manhattan, after another grueling airline trip during which I came to realize that air travel in the US, in this day and age, is an enterprise best avoided, really. The whole system is so jittery and up its own arse, post 9-11 (which, let’s keep in mind, happened ages ago now) that the customer’s needs are completely and utterly buried under a minefield of impoliteness, inefficiency and uniformly accusatory tones. I had three hours between my fights through LAX to NY and only made it by the skin of my teeth. I was shouted at, spent two hours in needless queues, demeaned, made to feel as foreign as a blue comic at a nun’s convention and generally felt debased by the whole affair. I consider myself a pretty seasoned traveler, did everything spot on and as it was meant to be done and that’s what I get. I was surrounded by holidaymakers, confused, worried, lost who were getting no help at all from airline staff or anyone else. You’d think two buildings had been hit by planes again yesterday. I’d advise anyone I respect to avoid travel by air in America for a while. Even passing through it is a chore.

But here I am, in the city, the brand, for two weeks. TSO is here finishing the last few weeks of filming for the movie we were working on in Berlin, here. I’m back to being camp follower, happily. We’re staying at Sixty Thompson in Soho which is pretty nice though the walls are thin as washi – I just heard my neighbour’s morning movements in far more detail than I’d have chosen for myself. Looking forward to getting out and getting into it today, though.


Nov 5 2007

Treptowering Monuments



Yesterday, TSO and I, on the advice of good friends, went to check out the Soviet monument in Berlin’s Treptow area. We’d been apprised of its scale and stark nature so we had some prep but still, it was a stunning sight. The centerpiece is a series of 5 stone-topped sarcophagi containing the remains of 5000 soldiers lost in the battle for Berlin. At one end is a cubist incomplete arc of marble with the soviet hammer and sickle device, each fronted by a kneeling soldier, hand on machine gun, tired from battle. From the vantage point behind them one is confronted with the view of the graves, lined on both sides by rows of rectangular blocks of sandstone adorned with soviet propaganda reliefs which are a feast in themselves, more on them to follow. At the far end is a large mound topped with the most impressive bit of soviet-era sculpture I’ve seen.
It’s a twelve meter high statue of a soviet soldier, helmetless, with a frightened child clinging to his left shoulder. In his right hand is a gigantic, slightly over-scale medieval broadsword which rests on a limb of the crushed swastika under his feet. His face is stoic, resolved, right. The sheer audacity of it puts you on the back foot, this is propaganda and you know it, but fuck it, it’s convincing as hell – you want to believe that anyone who’d put this much effort in, go to this much trouble, just HAS to be right, you know?
The fact that the whole thing was built by the soviets, who occupied that half of the city, has a sort of eeriness about it all. The info boards at the entrance, showing the start of construction in the late ’40s, old soviet-made trucks and bedraggled labourers swarming over the muddy scene. The gigantic hands of the main sculpture, disembodied, lying on the groun awaiting crane-assisted assembly, with a man standing beside them. Visiting Soviet dignitaries in the ’50s and ’60s even Putin in the ’90s coming to pay respects to their troops who served and died in this far outpost of their ultimately doomed empire.
The third sculpture is a Russian mother-figure – “Mother Russia” – honouring, in true communist tradition, the sacrifice of those on the home front as well as that of the troops on the battle front. A great experience without leaving the city.


Sep 28 2007

Back in Fall

I’ve been terrible. Terribly busy. I’m working in Berlin and I’m working long days. Buying groceries is something I have to slip into one narrow time slot per week and even that’s being let slide cos there’s no time to cook the ingredients I might buy. Blogging, as you can imagine, is a luxury I don’t really have. But still, I’m here, passing through and seeing the old place, covered in metaphoric cobwebs and dust.

It’s a strange world, the one they make films in. I’m working in it but it feels like I’m floating through it, like nobody can see me, a diaphanous figure creeping about, watching everything with a heady mix of awe and something like disgust but not as strong. I suppose with it being a temporary thing for me, I look at every situation differently – my lack of related ambition gives me a rare perspective. I’m able to cast a pretty honest eye on things.

It’s a convoluted picture I’m forming – the sheer enormity of the project that creates an hour and a half of entertainment is staggering. The staggering amount of money involved makes me feel fairly ill occasionall but the real thing is the people involved. I’m a people watcher to trade so I really take in the scene in a crew of this many poeple, the relationships involved, the do’s and don’ts around certain ones – it’s heaven, really. Sadly, as far as quality goes, I’ve only met about five people in this whole project that are not possessed of some nature of a hard-nosed, utterly ruthless ambition that makes them helplessly sycophantic around their highers. I’ve met a couple of real characters too, don’t get me wrong, who appear grounded and set enough in themselves that they can exist in this world and remain true to their word and their spirit. But there are so very many levels of hierarchy an such a specific order of peck in this game that people with anything less than a very firmly grounded idea of themselves, a liking for themselves, are drawn into this need for acceptance and to impress one’s superiors at any possible cost.

It’s strong – I found myself starting to be drawn into it a couple of times through this sudden feeling of inferiority that I’d not felt for a lot of years, this wispy insecurity. I’m finally coming to terms with it I think – my strategy is to not have anything to do with anyone that doesn’t appear to be being honest and straight, and it’s easy to tell cos there ain’t a lot of subtlety around!

The greatest revelation for me has been not in the attitudes of the cast members – in fact the few I’ve met are among the ones that seem grounded enough to handle this. No, it’s been realizing the enormity of the egos of people behind the scenes that has my belief beggared, to be honest. That thin plastic crew tag around some people’s necks is a golden ticket, a dastardly cloak that allows the bearer to primp, strut, belittle, condescend and subjugate at will. People don’t look at your face here or listen to your voice, they check your tag first, to see how they should treat you which I find really amazing. You’ll be walking along or standing in the lunch line and you see people you’ve not met reading your tag, scanning for signs of superiority!

I’m a bit like a menstruating woman taking a dip in a shark-infested lagoon to be honest – I’m wide open to be exploited, manipulated, sidelined by these career animals, whatever suits their purpose. And I caught myself trying to be harder, to avoid that for a while before I realized that I’m not ashamed of the fact that I’m not cut out to stand up to all this unmerciful ambition, a fact I’m quite proud of. So I carry on, for example, watching my effort passed off as someone else’s without feeling any malice. I carry on helping out someone, if I see a chance to, without trying to forecast how they might manipulate my help and make it look like something else. I unstintingly walk around with a smile rather than an “I’m busy and important” look on my kite, and I try very, very hard to stay true to who I am. It’s only a couple more months eh?

And anyway, the great thing is that I’m living with TSO, we’re living in Berlin, which is a truly great city, and hey, I’m here and I’m alright, you know? How it is, dudes…


Feb 1 2007

Bonnie Heilan Beastie

I was trying to get a good headshot of some traditional scottish cows last sunday. I managed to get pretty close to them but they looked so damn sad, as they often do. Sad, wet, muddy, miserable. They just look like they would rather be somewhere else – like Scotland is not their natural environment. Where exactly would suit a beast like this is a question only God could answer.


Oct 3 2006

The Gawld Cawst

Well after about a week and a half here on the Gold Coast, I consider myself a fully qualified person to start making sweeping generalizations about Australian culture – this being the typical, down home Australian kinda town. (arf arf)
The weather right now is about perfect for me – and this being Australian winter, it’s then a bloody good thing I don’t live here all the time. Warm enough to swim in the sea during the day and cool enough that you need a jacket at night – that’s all I ask for – and a place that can grow palm trees. A good friend, Trueman, once, on a postcard to me, stated the ultimate holiday sentiment “I don’t wanna live anywhere palm trees can’t grow ever again” – Boom!

The Asutralian people, I find to be wholly agreeable in their element – easy going, eilling to chat it up when required, astute enough to know when its not required – I’ve never had an issue with antipodeans anyway but having observed them in their natural habitat, I’m a fan. I’ve been careful to make the most of any interchange with local people, who are hard to find around these touristy parts, and I can say i’ve had some good laughs. Taxi driver talking up the local dog racing scene – that was a good one. Larrikin at local convenie talking to his mate about the after hours boozin’ scene here – that was nice. Signs of life, all of them. I can find none of the insecurity-driven overcompensations you find in many in the new world, folk here seem at ease with themselves, which suits me fine. The stanch character in my few true mates from these parts is upheld by what I find in their home turf – Pistol and Jobbie – I can see what it is that I like you for now! Hah!

The area of the Gold Coast we are staying at, Main Beach / Surfer’s Paradise, is about as touristy as I imagine a country, any country, could get, and yet I am able to see through the miles of tourists andd tourist-driven kak, and get a feel for what the rest of the country would be like. I’ve been watching some TV which again I find fun – mainly a comedty series called “Real Stories” which is awesome. Also, we dutifully watched the Rugby League final on Sunday between local side Brisbane and Melbourne. I have to say, though I enjoy Rugby of the union variety, I fully enjoyed the leage game – far faster, more of a running game and infinitely better to watch. I’m a convert. Brisbane won by a narrow margin anyway.

We’ve been buying shrimp fresh off the boat and choking them back at a helluvah rate here, and during these trips, have come across some rather unhealthy anti-asian sentiment among the trawlermen. One day there were no prawns and i made the mistake of asking a man why – I was treated to a 45 minute discourse on the evils of asian infiltration not just in the prawn business but everything else where there’s money to be made. Another day I spotted this sign, paid for by the Gold Coast fishermen’s co-op and was relieved to find that my friend had not been unique in any way. Note, especially, the cartoon asians on the boat and at the dock – complete with buck teeth and straw sampan!! Hilarious. Click on it to blow it up and get a load of the detail.

Anyway, that’s my time here drawiing to a close now, will be outty on Friday and back to reality and the new job come Monday morning. Australia – it’s a cunt of a journey away, but it’s alright once you get there. Tourism Australia can have that one on me.